Why does my Maltese dog scratch the side of his food bowl?
Topic: Why does my Maltese dog scratch the side of his food bowl?
November 13, 2019 / By Adene Question:
When my Maltese dog gets ready to eat, he scratches/paws at his food bowl with his paw before he eats. He does this to the side of his bowl about five times with his paw....like he's playing with his food bowl or something; then he eats. Why does he do this? Thanks.
Best Answers: Why does my Maltese dog scratch the side of his food bowl?
Temani | 8 days ago
There may be something wrong with the food bowl. It may be the wrong shape or too shiny. Or it may be on a shiny surface that a light is reflecting, and he is moving it to clear out the reflection from the overhead light. With animals, you always have to get down to their perspective and examine what they're dealing with to see what it could be. It's usually something sensory - something they are seeing (reflected light and certain colors are a big problem for cows), hearing (a vibration, a high or low pitched noise), feeling (a warm or cold air current), or smelling (an odor that wafts in from somewhere). Sometimes it is because it is near something they don't like - something that is jarring in some sensory way. I got this stuff from a book called "Animals in Translation", but it is not for sensitive readers, because it's about the animal slaughtering business, mainly cows, and the things that spook them in their pens and at their feed, etc.
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Originally Answered: Why does my Maltese dog run away from her food bowl?
Consider something different. I just read that ceramic bowls made in China were found to have toxic levels of leads and other chemicals. If you are feeding your dog out of a ceramic bowl...try a stainless steel bowl. See if that works. If so...throw out the ceramic bowl. I read on Snopes.com ...just a thought!
I have six Yorkies and they all eat out of the same two bowls, but only one, the older, paws at the bowl several times before she starts eating... And it isn't any of the reasons you listed,, The seven years I've had her I have noticed she has instincts like the canines in the wild,, Example; The two litters she had, she cared for her pups to the point where they were old enough to be running around and if I gave her a treat she would take it to her pups and allowed them to eat it. And there were times she would regurgitate her food so they would eat it, even though they had puppy food that they were already eating.. I believe her pawing at her bowl is a way for her to treat it as if her food was alive. Also when I give her a treat she will throw it a few times before she eats it.
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I have a 3 year old poodle who weighs about 6 pounds. She is a very picky eater also. We feed our dog the Eukunuba dog food. We were running out and bought a new one but I guess it tasted different to her. She wouldn't eat also. My dog is a scaredy cat and runs away from a food bowl and anything else she finds scary. We actually "feeded" her with our own hands. Then she liked it or she was just hungry and started to eat it. Just try feeding your dog. Hope I helped!! :)
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Wow, I just read the answer below from terra et solis as my pug has been scrating around the food bowl for the last few months - we changed the bowl the other day however the scrating continued. Just took away the clear plastic mat from under his food and there we go - he is happily eating his breakfast nicely - thanks heaps - you are a gem!
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he does it because he is telling you he is hungrey and so if he does that then he gets your attention so youll feed him,
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Originally Answered: What side does my corn snake water bowl be on?
place the water bowl on cool end when it wont evaporate so quickly The size of the vivarium should be matched to the size of the corn snake. Hatchlings and juveniles will be happiest in a smaller vivarium (18x12x12inches) whereas larger corn snakes (large juveniles to adults) should be kept in something more like 30x15x15in. Adults shouldn’t be kept in anything less than 36x18x18in. You need to gradually increase the size of the vivarium as corn snakes are especially prone to becoming agrophobic.
For substrate there are a number of options. The safest and cheapest is newspaper or kitchen roll. There is no risk of impaction when using news paper or kitchen roll. The only problem with this is it doesn’t look very natural (then again, if you’ve got bright orange plant pot saucers as hides, what’s the problem?).
If you are looking for a more natural substrate then you can use aspen shavings or bark chips. If using bark chips avoid cedar or anything with a strong piney smell. The resins that give this smell are supposedly dangerous for snakes so they are best avoided.
If you choose to use anything other than newspaper/kitchen roll for your substrate it is essential that you feed your snake away from its substrate. If you do feed on top of the substrate there is a risk that the snake will ingest some of it and become impacted. If you choose to use natural substrate then you should get a plastic DIY storage tub to feed your snake in, they are very useful and almost like they were built for that job.
Decor is very important, yet very simple. So long as you get it right you shouldn’t have any problems. You need to provide a hide in both the warm end and the cool end of the vivarium (more about warm ends and cool ends in the heating section). Your corn snake will hide in whichever hide it chooses dependant on how warm it wants to be. The only other piece of décor which is required is a water bowl. It should be large enough for the corn snake to soak it in (it is quite rare for corn snakes to soak in their water bowls but they have been know to do it from time to time, especially around shedding). Those bits of décor are the essentials, if you wish you can add climbing structures for your corn snake to climb on (I have found they particularly like cork bark leant against the side or mopani wood to climb around).