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My Cat won't stop pooping on the floor?

My Cat won't stop pooping on the floor? Topic: My Cat won't stop pooping on the floor?
January 25, 2020 / By Fraser
Question: My cat is a year and a half and within the last 4-5 months she has decided that she is not going to poop in the litter box anymore. She pee's in there but does not poop. I have tried a list of things.. 1. Change the litter box(Made it bigger and took off the top) 2. Changed the litter 3.Bought feliway and put it near the area that she's going. 4.Moved her food bowls farther away from the litter 5. Changed the location of the litter box 6. Gave her more attention 7. Changed the amount of litter put in the box I don't know what else to do, I really do not want her doing this for 13 more years and Ive consulted with my Vet and I don't even know what to do next. The thing is, she will poop in the litter box once, when I completely clean out the whole litter box, meaning take all the litter out and put new stuff in, but once she's gone in it once she won't poop in it again.I don't know what to do from here and Im just looking for some different advice!
Best Answer

Best Answers: My Cat won't stop pooping on the floor?

Declan Declan | 9 days ago
Give her 2 litter boxes. Fill one box with the Cat Attract litter: Cat Attract was developed by a feline-only veterinarian as a "training litter." This litter contains a natural herb "attractant" that piques a cat's curiosity in the litter. Because of this unique quality. I have heard this works very well and is not expensive. Source(s): http://cats.about.com/cs/litterbox/fr/ca... I wonder if you or your vet has checked her for constipation. My cat takes meds that make her constipated. It hurt her to try and go and she would go outside of the box, under tables, behind chairs you name it. The litter box "hurt her" so she kept trying other places that "hurt her also" I was slow on the uptake and it took awhile to realize that it was hard and actually like little rocks or stones and sometimes no bigger than a grape. If this is the problem you start putting plain pureed pumpkin in her canned food and add a teaspoon at a time - if it doesn't work she can take Miralax 1/8 of a teaspoon on her wet food morning and night. Keep increasing every few days until she is going normally and it is not hard. Mine is on 3/4 a teaspoon a day. By feeding only wet good high protein cat food you will find your cat will have far less problems if any at all, with crystals, blockages or urinary tract infections. There is also a much better chance of avoiding diabetes and many other illnesses. Also he/she will have a better coat of fur and it will not have dandruff and it will be glossy. Your cat will reach a good weight - whether she/he needs to gain or lose weight - and she/he will eat less than a cheap can of food filled with bad protein and carbohydrates. Not saying all cheap cans are no good. There are some very good ones available. If you can not afford canned food from the list check out http://binkyspage.tripod.com/CanFoodNew.... Choose a food that is high in protein and is under 10% carbohydrates and stay away from fish. You will even find a few Walmart brands there on the list that are pretty decent in numbers. You can leave canned food out all the time to feed your cat 24 hours a day. Cats are grazers. Even in the summer it is ok to leave out wet food for 12 hours. Add a tablespoon or 2 of water to it so they get more fluids and so it stays more moist. The other place to read is what Dr Lisa Pierson DVM has written. She has devoted her life to proper diets for cats and tells how to get a cat to change over from a dry to wet diet etc. http://catinfo.org/ Some really good brands are : Wellness Innova/EVO Taste of the Wild Blue Buffalo/Wilderness Natural Balance California Natural Felidae Orijen Acana Before Grain Nature’s Variety Instinct Dry food is bad and does nothing to clean a cats teeth. I have seen cats that are a year old with rotten teeth and all they ever ate was dry. Buying food from the vet is not the best quality food you can find. In most vet schools the nutrition classes are given by a pet food company without charge to the University, they of course promote their products and the cheapest products for them to make and earn the biggest profit is the dry ingredients as it is mostly carbs and cheap protein like from corn or rice not meat.
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Declan Originally Answered: how do i stop my cat from pooping on the floor?
Here are some suggestions to your litter box problems: - Provide a box for each cat - Change litter daily - Provide constant access to a box - Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or - Discontinue new disinfectant - Move box to where it was previously used - Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box - Move food and water away from litter box - If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day (OR you can simply place a bowl of food there, because cats do not like to go where they eat) - If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there - Experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter) - Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it - Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes (one to pee in and one to poop in) Problems arise when your cat doesn't like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. Let's be fair here. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span. First lesson learned: You did not train your cat to use a litter box. At best, you offered the cat something recognizable as litter material. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options: 1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam. 2) If you aren't scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now. 3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell. 4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location (such as next to the washing machine)? Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location. 5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you'll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it. 6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place (maybe a bed room) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible. 7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you'll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them. There is one more important distinction that you'll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist. Correcting the Problem The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive. Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers. At the same time, you must break the cat's habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent -- or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot. It's important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive - such as a strong citrus or floral - can also keep the cat away from the area. When to See the Vet If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian. Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet's doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis - which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box - and constipation.
Declan Originally Answered: how do i stop my cat from pooping on the floor?
Get two litter boxes and everytiem nala takes one on the floor.. lock her inside a kitty crate and splash water on her :) haha jk.

Bart Bart
You can't get them to stop crapping on the floor. You might be able to get them to start crapping in cat boxes again... I'd give each their own. I'd confine both cats to small areas each with it's own box for awhile, then after they realize that cat-crap on the floor can be a problem for them too, they might begin depositing it where it belongs again. Then start letting them out, but maybe confine them from each other. Maybe someday they'll act like they want to enter each other's territories and be friends and that's the time to try it. You should never just toss animals together and expect nothing bad to happen.
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Zandra Zandra
Try Attract Litter. I had a cat who stopped peeing in the cat box and tried everything. I then stumbled on Attract Litter and the problem was solved instantly. Not sure what is in it, but when I opened the bag and poured it in Batman's new shiny clean cat box (I did buy him a new one lest he think the old one had demons in it), he came in from the next room, sniffed it, went in and peed. I can't tell you why it works, but it does. They sell it in Petsmart. You can also order the Attract Litter additive on line (thru Amazon I think) and add it to your own scoopable litter. Give it a shot. It is the only thing that worked for me. Link for it is attached: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.js...
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Zandra Originally Answered: What can I do to help my neutered year-old male cat stop pooping on the floor near the litter box?
Here are some suggestions to your litter box problems: - Provide a box for each cat - Provide constant access to a box - Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or - Discontinue new disinfectant - Move box to where it was previously used - Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box - Move food and water away from litter box - If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day (OR you can simply place a bowl of food there, because cats do not like to go where they eat) - If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there - Experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter) - Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it - Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes (one to pee in and one to poop in) Problems arise when your cat doesn't like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. Let's be fair here. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span. First lesson learned: You did not train your cat to use a litter box. At best, you offered the cat something recognizable as litter material. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options: 1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam. 2) If you aren't scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now. 3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell. 4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location (such as next to the washing machine)? Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location. 5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you'll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it. 6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place (maybe a bed room) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible. 7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you'll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them. There is one more important distinction that you'll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist. Correcting the Problem The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive. Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers. At the same time, you must break the cat's habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent -- or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot. It's important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive - such as a strong citrus or floral - can also keep the cat away from the area. When to See the Vet If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian. Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet's doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis - which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box - and constipation. Always scoop litter boxes twice a day. When cleaning the litter box, use a mild detergent and finish by rinsing very thoroughly. Never use strong-smelling pine cleansers or ammonia. If you want to disinfect the box with bleach, dilute it with water first. Rinsing the box with boiling water is also effective. With covered cat boxes, the smell can be worse, especially with high humidity, so you must be willing to clean it more. Odor removing tips: Remember, a cat’s sense of smell is fourteen times stronger than that of a human. This is why it is so important for you to thoroughly clean the urine spots. You cat probably still smells the urine in the carpet, and this can make them want to “re-mark” that spot over and over. To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don’t like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I’ve found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area. What Won’t Work… There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans’ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However; you will need more to remove the odor for your cat’s nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application, (Nature’s Miracle is one of them). The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation. Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.

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